The Enduring Legacy of the Top Hat
Few items in the history of menswear command the same quiet authority as the top hat. Synonymous with Victorian grandeur, Edwardian elegance, and formal ceremony, the top hat has survived nearly two and a half centuries as the ultimate symbol of distinguished dress. Whether you're attending a Royal Ascot, a formal wedding, or simply exploring classic headwear, understanding the top hat is essential for any student of sartorial style.
A Brief History
The top hat first appeared in England around the late 18th century, with hatmaker John Hetherington often credited — somewhat apocryphally — with causing a public disturbance when he wore one on the streets of London in 1797. By the mid-19th century, it had become the default headwear for respectable men across Europe and North America. Its dominance lasted through the Edwardian era before gradually retreating to ceremonial use after the First World War.
Types of Top Hat
- Silk Top Hat: The classic formal variety, made from blocked silk plush. Deep black with a lustrous sheen. The standard for morning dress and white tie events.
- Grey Top Hat: Traditionally worn at Royal Ascot and certain race meetings. Made from the same silk plush in a pale dove grey.
- Opera Hat (Gibus): A collapsible top hat with a spring mechanism, designed to be tucked under the arm in the opera or theatre. Named after the French inventor Antoine Gibus.
- Felt Top Hat: A more casual, less formal variant made from beaver or wool felt. Suitable for country occasions.
- Topper for Weddings: Typically worn as part of morning dress — black or grey depending on the formality and invitation wording.
How to Wear a Top Hat Correctly
The top hat demands a certain posture and confidence. Here are the key principles:
- Sit it level: The hat should sit squarely on the head, not tilted. A slight rearward tilt is occasionally acceptable for a rakish effect, but forward tilting is never correct.
- Fit matters: The hat should sit firmly without pinching. A well-fitted hat requires no hands to stay in place in a moderate breeze.
- Match it to the occasion: Black silk for white tie and morning dress; grey for Ascot and summer race meetings; felt toppers only at less formal country occasions.
- Carry it properly: When removed indoors, hold the brim with the lining facing inward, or use the collapsible opera hat option for venues where storage is limited.
What to Wear With a Top Hat
The top hat belongs to specific formal dress codes. Understanding what it pairs with prevents costly wardrobe errors:
- Morning Dress: Black or grey tailcoat, matching or striped trousers, waistcoat, and a white or pale shirt with a tie or cravat.
- White Tie: Evening tailcoat, white waistcoat, white bow tie — typically the black silk opera hat accompanies this look.
- Ascot: Grey top hat with morning dress in grey or black, often with a light-coloured waistcoat.
Buying a Top Hat Today
New silk top hats are among the rarest items in men's fashion, with only a handful of hatmakers still producing them. Lock & Co. of St James's Street, London — established in 1676 — remains the most famous. Vintage top hats are more accessible and can be found through specialist dealers, estate sales, and auction houses. When buying vintage, check the internal circumference carefully, as hat sizes have evolved over the decades.
Final Thoughts
The top hat is not for every occasion, nor should it be. Its rarity in modern life is precisely what makes wearing one so impactful. When the occasion calls for it — and when it fits correctly and is worn with the right ensemble — nothing else comes close.